Wednesday, May 29, 2024

Camino 30 - Alto do Poio to Samos



We finished morning prayer just before sunrise.



Today was mostly downhill, although there were plenty of rises and falls along the road.



The last picture is of the "100-year-old Chestnut tree" parts of which are more than 800 years old. The base is over 8 ft diameter. 

Our first waypoint was Triacastela.  



To the right in 20 kilometers was Sarria, the beginning of the end of the Camino. To the left was Samos in 12 km. We took left. 


The alburgue is part of the large monastery you see in the picture above. It is run on donations.



So now I am showered, clothes washed, well fed, and relaxing for a few. 
Buen Camino!

Camino 31 - Samos to Ferreiros




The monastery at Samos had a royal Grant of very much territory under its control. Probably at its peak it would have had hundreds of monks praying and working. Now there are eight. 


We left early before sunrise heading toward saria and beyond.

We arrived in Sarria mid-morning just in time for coffee and croissant.



Up the steps past many albergues and out into the country quite suddenly. 


Tonight we stay in Ferreiros.  So far we are the only people in the very new municipal alburgue.


Monday, May 27, 2024

Camino 29 - Vega del Valcarces to Alto do Poio



We set out early from Vega. The Saracen castle was still lighted against the night sky. We were told it would be a steep climb and so it was. We had originally thought to limit the day to 11 km or so. We ended up going around 22 km. Beautiful all the way.


At the ridge crest we moved into the kingdom of Galicia.


Before the first village there was a Galician Piper, bagpiper, busking on the trail. It was a wonderful greeting.




In town was a church that we stopped at. It was open and in the left of the sanctuary were memorials to pilgrims who had passed on. There was also a candlelit baptismal. 


After this we walked through the town and then to the deeply rolling hills ahead.


We also ran into horseman riding the Camino. You might even call them Camino Cavalry.


We arrived at Alto do Poio a bit before 2:00. This is an extraordinary place perched high above the valley below.




but also somewhat domestic. 


Buen Camino!

Saturday, May 25, 2024

Camino 28 - Villafranco del Bierzo to Vega del Valcarces



Okay we're headed up into the hills now. We plan to short day maybe 17 or 18 km. Just getting out of Villafranco was a challenge. One of the streets on the Camino was completely torn up for the installation of a sewer system. There was a gap in the fences so we walked through on the dirt in between the houses where the work was being done. I guess we sort of led the way for a group of pilgrims that were trying to find a way through.






We stopped for a second breakfast at the little town. This very well mannered large dog was hanging out.


 
 
In Vega the church was open. This was highly unusual as perhaps one in ten houses of worship were open and unlocked.
 
Above Vega is a 9th century Saracen Castle on a promontory.

 
 
It is a reminder of why the knights Templar and the knights of Malta came to the north of Spain. They were invited here to protect the pilgrims from the Moors. 
 
Tonight we had a hilarious dinner with two Italian men: Antonio from Milan and Antonio from Bologna.  It was delightful and hilarious to hear them correcting each other.